Azure Skies and Snowy-white Rinds

by Caitlin Griffith

At your next party – perhaps even celebrating the warm weather streak that we hope is here to stay – you absolutely need to serve a citrus-y Saison with a bloomy rind goat. Now, I am biased because farmhouse Saisons scream sunshine and warm weather to me. Give me a tangy straw-colored beauty any time of year and visions of verdant grass and azure skies swim before my eyes.

Before I become too mushy and emotional here, let’s revisit Saison history. In French, Saison means season, and originally the lightly hopped beer was brewed in the wintertime to be enjoyed during the late summer harvest. There was no refrigeration back in the day (cue entrance of cheese, which is milk’s leap toward immortality) and so the chilly winter months protected the bottle-conditioned brew from turning rancid. Perfect! This style is witnessing something of a revival right now and I, for one (if you couldn’t already tell) am psyched because of its excellence in pairing with food. Those French-speaking Belgian farmers were really on to something. Most Saisons boast a tartness and dry finish and many display citrus flavors, as well as a grassiness and biscuit-y yeast quality.

I tasted the Saison Dupont, arguably the world’s most famous and unmatched expression of a Saison, with hints of lemon, cardamom, clove, and pear, with one of my favorite goat’s milk cheeses, the Haystack Peak from Colorado. This pasteurized bloomy-rind goat is based on the pyramid-shaped goats from the Loire Valley in France but with an American spin. The snowy-white exterior hints at its milky, harmonious flavor. Its brightness is well-balanced by three distinct textures (thanks to time spent aging in Murray’s caves): a velvety rind, followed up by a delightful whisper of a creamline, and a pasty interior. The Saison Dupont and Haystack Peak danced all over my tongue in a sprightly tango that will light up the life of anyone interested in cheese and/or beer in the least bit.

Let’s not further complicate things here and say more than is necessary, as we already possess a flawless pairing, but throw in some nice crusty bread, whole grain mustard, and a log of the classic French Saucisson Sec and call it a day. Happy Spring!

We’ll Drink To That: Beer & Cheese Pairing Basics

Caitlin and Kevin have insatiable appetites for delicious cheese/beverage combinations and they are out to try them all. Today they share some basic tips for pairing beer and cheese, just in time for your St. Paddy’s Day festivities.

BEER ME

Beer and cheese. The perfect pairing? Potentially. Better than wine and cheese? Undeniably, and we aren’t just saying so because St. Patrick’s Day is on the horizon. A wise man once told us that cheese and beer are the same: both are made from grass processed by animals for our (delicious) consumption, and both are ancient methods of preservation. If you’re unconvinced, try this mental exercise: Think of your favorite cheese, and the creamy rich texture that coats your mouth. Then imagine a glass of crisp, lightly effervescent,  golden-brown lager. There, now you get it.

BEST BETS: TIPS FOR CHOOSING BEER AND CHEESE 

When pairing cheese and beer, it’s important to stay away from super hoppy beers. You may love that eye-watering Double IPA, but it’ll overwhelm any cheese you want to munch with it. Stay closer to the malty side of the fence: Stouts, bocks, ambers and pilsners. Stouts and porters are particularly cooperative, as their roasty-toasty character works well with many cheeses.

On the cheese side, go for cheese that will stand up to your beer. Delicate cheeses are easily overwhelmed, so you wouldn’t pair these with anything too intense. Texture-forward cheeses, such as Fromager d’Affinois or a triple crème can get lost against even the mildest of beers. Instead, think alpine-style, washed-rinds, and thistle rennet options – in other words, stuff with serious flavor.

WHAT WE LOVED

Alpine cheese, such as Comte or Gruyere (cave-aged for sure), pairs well with a rich Stout. The roasted character of the stout, which can frequently have notes of chocolate or coffee, marries perfectly with the sweet, caramelly, cooked milk of an alpine cheese. This weekend we tried a few new beer and cheese combos. Our favorite pairing was Spring Brook Tarentaise with Two Brothers North-Wind Imperial Stout, the fruity American alpine mixed delightfully with the clean notes of the Stout. And for a truly seasonal treat, you can’t do much better than our new, limited edition Cavemaster Reserve Across the Pond. It’s washed in stout, so beer is its natural companion – get it while it lasts!

The best thing about beer is that it’s a wonderfully forgiving accompaniment, so DO try this at home. As long as you take care to match flavor intensity odds are you’ll have a delicious duo. Throw some cured meats, olives, nuts or dried fruit alongside, and dinner is served.

Caitlin Griffith is a cheesemonger at our Bleecker Street store, and in a few months she’ll boast a MA in Food Studies from NYU. Things she enjoys in excess: wine, radishes, list-making, garlic, and salt water.

Kevin Brooks is head monger at Bleecker Street and also shares his merchandising expertise in Murray’s Kroger outposts. His iPod is full of metal, and his brain is full of thoughts on beer, burritos, and Settlers of Catan.

Thanksgiving Canapes

Thanksgiving Canapes

Featuring Twin Maple Farm Hudson Red, Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, Creminelli Americano, Boat Street Pickled Raisins & Urban Oven Crackers

From Beth Griffenhagen, Murray’s in-house Entertaining Maven

Beth is revered by the Made by Murray’s customers for her excellent entertaining and hosting advice, and by the Murray’s staff for her legendary gatherings. Here Beth divulges two simple canape recipes, made with all-American ingredients, to whet your guests’ appetite before your Thanksgiving feast.

Coast-to-Coast Canape

1 lb Twin Maple Farms Hudson Red
1 jar Boat Street Pickled Raisins
1 Baguette or 6 oz box of Urban Oven Crackers

Place a healthy portion (approx 1/2 oz) of room-temperature Hudson Red (cut or spread) onto thinly sliced baguette or an Urban Oven Cracker. Just before serving, top with a few Boat Street pickled raisins.

Yields 30-35 Canapes

This simple canape is the perfect thing to greet your guests with if you’re hosting a Thanksgiving celebration. Sweet and tangy pickled raisins complement the buttery richness of Hudson Red to create an unexpected harmony of flavors. Best of all, easy assembly means you have more time to spend with friends and family, or to put the finishing touches on the rest of the meal. Enjoy with a Riesling or a festive bubbly.

Americano As Apple Pie

1 lb Cabot Clothbound Cheddar
1 Creminelli Americano Salami
3-4 Fresh Local Apples

Cut a crisp variety of apple (we like Honey Crisp or Winesap) into thin, half-moon shaped slices. Toss apple slices lightly with lemon juice to prevent browning. Place a thin slice of Americano beside a few large crumbles of Cabot Clothbound Cheddar on top each apple slice.

Yields 30-35 Canapes

We’ve combined all the things that are great about American food today into one delightful bite – fresh, seasonal produce, artisanal cheese from a well-known American producer, and salumi that celebrates one of America’s favorite flavor profiles. If you plan ahead and prep the components in advance, you’ll only need a few minutes to put everything together before guests arrive.

Learn more on Holiday Entertaining from Beth on November 23rd